NM diaries #1: the tourist

Here at last are some of my thoughts on my wonderful little December foray out West - into New Mexico!
#1 - The tourist

Obviously, my main intention for this whole trip was contemplative and spiritual. Obviously! ;) But... to get to the monastery and the conference I had to pass through some towns. And what better way to pass through them than cleverly disguised as... a tourist! Shocking I know, but i had to do it. Armed with my camera, hiking bag and fake South African accent I headed for the nearest student hostel and pulled off a sterling 'tourist' performance!

Santa Fe
First stop was a very expensive shuttle from the Albuquerque airport to Santa Fe. (NOTE: next time don't ask the information desk for transport. Ask an airport local for the cheap public transport.) Anyways, $25 dollars lighter I arrived at Santa Fe International Youth Hostel. It certainly has seen better days, and i'm never too sure who is a visitor and who is a resident, but I had a dorm to myself so I wasn't complaining. It started snowing when i arrived, so i couldn't do too much touristy stuff. I made some light conversation with the residents and guests, took a shower and went to bed.

The next morning I finally got to see the town and this is what i saw:

Santa Fe is a very quaint little village. It is an art mecca, and locals complain about the high property prices. It is also one of the oldest cities in the US. Some place in Florida says its the nation's first city, but SF has been around since about 1610 (i think). There are also wonderful old churches, one of the most famous being the Lorretto chapel with its miraculous staircase. I was planning to visit it when I got back from the monastery, but the 20 inches of snow stopped all those plans. I did hear the cool folklore surrounding the staircase from one of the nuns at Christ in the Desert.

I did at least have one evening walking around town. It was snowing a little bit, but i had my music machine, my jacket and an adventurous spirit. I went to some neat modern art galleries, got a coffee at Borders, visited a great second hand store, some antique furniture places and even found a shop selling Carrol Boyes and other South African stuff. In New Mexico! After talking to the owner it seems like Carrol Boyes has quite a following in the US. I walked the mile or two back to the hostel singing along to Damien Rice.

The next morning i met up with Anne Stewart (Maggie's cool aunt) and got a ride to the monastery just before a huge snow storm came and closed the roads off. (monk diary to come)
10 days later the snow was gone, and i made my way back to Santa Fe for a final night at the International hostel. I was hoping to see the historic part of town, but a huge snow storm came in and everything closed down. I managed to get one of the last busses to Albuquerque before the interstates shut down.

Oh yes - one more thing: Santa Fe may have Georgia O'Keefe to thank for its art life. I was not too familiar with her, but she is one of the most renowned artists of American Modernism. She lived and painted at Ghost Ranch, near the monastery, where the vistas are breathtaking. The area, galleries and high property prices reminded me a lot of our own art mecca - Clarens. I've just seen that my mom even has a website as one of the 'Clarens artists'- go mom! O'Keefe had a very colourful life, and i got my mom a book about her and her art - could she be the next Georgia?

Albuquerque
I think i first heard this name in a Wierd Al song, and thought he was joking. He wasn't. There really is a place called Albuquerque. Albie for the locals. No, thats a joke. The town isn't - it is rather a nice place! Great downtown strip with retro neon lights - from the route 66 heyday; wonderful Old Town square with touristy shops - the Native American fleece is made in Pakistan; and pretty earthy adobe style houses. I wouldn't mind visiting again.

After paying $3 for the state subsidised bus from Santa Fe, i arrived in downtown Abq and walked to Route 66 hostel. They let this poor snow covered stranger in and gave me a top bunk with a bad mattress. The dorm was full with 5 other guys. At least one of them snored! I had 3 nights there and then after the conference a friend of mine let me stay in his other bed in the hotel Albuquerque for my final night. For all my talk of simplicity etc it was very nice to be out of hostels and into a hotel with a big bed, clean sheets and a private bathroom for just one night! Thanks Ed!

Again the snow didn't allow too much exploring, but I did get to see Richard Rohr's Centre for Action and Contemplation; eat at some New Mexican food houses, explore Old Town and Nob Hill and have great meals at The Flying Star cafe and Kelly's Brewery. Both very arty and edgy places. As to the locals, i made friends with my waiters and hung out at Nickie and Adam's place for New Years with some friends, champagne, cigars and a Beck dvd. It was a neat time.

The conference ended and I caught my 7am flight, which only left at 9:30 and flew 'home' after a wonderful little adventure. I was very inspired to continue backpacking around, and to be intentional about meeting people that i admire and learning as much as i can from them.

The End.
Not!